**** M & S, dunnigan lane Fum Blanc 1999, 75cl, 12.5%, £5.99.

Region: California

Area: Dunnigan Hills

Nose: An aromatic grass and yeast combination with a stimulating spicy lemon twist.

Palate: Appetising tangy gooseberry and soft grapefruit acidity is surrounded by a succulent melon/lychee richness.

Well made and, well, perfect for char-grilled meaty white fish.

Although 100 per cent Sauvignon Blanc grapes, this US style is called Fum Blanc and was coined in the 1970s by one of California's most famous winemakers, Robert Mondavi, to revive interest in the grape.

First used to describe his dry Fum Blanc aged in new oak, it is now a popular New World synonym.

Unfortunately, the distinction, nowhere legally defined, has become muddled and may or may not indicate an oaked version

***** Oddbins, Bonterra Muscat 1998, 37.5cl, 8.5%, £6.99.

Region: California

Area: Lake County

Nose: A delicate blossom of elderflower and orange is elevated by a mouth-watering St Clements acidity.

Palate: A fruit punch of crisp russet apple and over-ripe mango is kept lively by an orange dominated tang.

A divine and delicious drop that is a taste experience.

Originally destined for Oddbins' Fine Wine shops, this one has found its way to us lesser mortals and is understandably rather scarce.

****+ Oddbins, Havenscourt Zinfandel, 75cl, 13%, £ 3.99.

Region: California

Area: Woodbridge

Nose: Sloe, sloe, quick, quick sloe.

It smells of a berry you just can't pin-point but sloe down and it's there with just a speck of spice.

Palate: Powerful bursts of red and blackcurrant fruit with a mild but sharp twist of sloe eventually calming to the comforting mix of a soothing blackcurrant fruit gum and the spice of a great Cuban cigar.

Quality for price, this is one of the best Zinfandel's I have ever tasted.

Unfortunately, yet another that may be in short supply but be patient - it's worth waiting for.

**** Morrisons, Garnet Point Chardonnay/Chenin Blanc 1998, 75cl, 12.5%, £3.99.

Region: California

Area: Lake County

Nose: Ginger sprinkled fresh melon with the soft richness of butter-filled baked apples.

Palate: An initial fruit and spice medley leads to more definite flavours of fresh apple and very mild pineapple.

Made by Californian giants E.

& J.

Gallo and unbelievably still value for money.

A spicy fruit cocktail of fresh apple, melon and pineapple to offer some alternative sunshine to our early autumnal nights.

***** Morrisons, Highway 41 Merlot 1999, 75cl, 13%, £ 3.99.

Region: California

Nose: Deep plum and bramble fruit with just a fleck of spice.

Palate: Fit and healthy fruit tannins protect a bouncy bundle of plum, blackcurrant, cedar and tobacco spice that reluctantly leaves the taste buds.

A brilliant buy at a brilliant price.

This can still go 'down the road a piece' to an even higher level of fruit concentration.

Named after Highway 41 which runs from Yosemite National Park through wine country down to Paso Robles where it joins Highway 46 at the junction where James Dean was killed.

****+ Co-op, 'laid back ruby' Ruby Cabernet 1999, 75cl, 13%, £3.99.

Region: California

Nose: Heady whiffs of crushed bramble and blackcurrant with a good dousing of black pepper.

Palate: An initial jaw-puller does slacken its grip to allow a flowing and rounded dark berry fruit with confident tannins that linger and dry in a mild spicy swansong.

Very good value for money and very well named as these grapes do put their feet up after grabbing your attention.

This is a must for any tasting education.

Ruby Cabernet was cultivated in the West Coast of America during the 1950s as part of an experimental breeding programme.

It is a crossing of Carignan, one of the most important grapes of the French Midi, with Cabernet Sauvignon.

Its reputation as dull and difficult has seen it pushed from country to country while this one proves it's still exciting at home.