THERE was something big and menacing in the churning, 30ft deep rock pool they call The Cauldron.

Suddenly, a huge salmon, etched silver and red against the tumbling peat-stained waters, sprang upwards, tilting at the light of an English autumn afternoon.

This is one of the delightful, simple pleasures of an exhilarating walking holiday high in the heart of the Yorkshire Dales.

Earlier, at the start of our seven mile walk to Settle, we had marvelled at the huge limestone hills dating back millions of years, shadowing each side of our rough pathway dotted with curious sheep.

The plus-point of this HF Holidays break is that you don't have to be terribly fit, or an expert walker, to share the wide open spaces and some of the loveliest scenery in Britain.

With admirable patience Jeff, our friendly guide, made sure we were fed with a constant stream of information about our surroundings and terrain.

We were based at Newfield Hall, in Malhamdale, one of HF's splendid country houses, just eight miles from Skipton.

It was here, over copious cups of free tea, coffee or chocolate shared with other holidaymakers, I met Christine Helps, the company's spokeswoman.

I was to learn that more than 55,000 people travel with the company every year - with more than 90 per cent coming back for more.

And no wonder, because, in addition to a wide and diverse Classic Walking programme, they offer writing, painting an a host of other courses with expert tutors.

You quickly find yourself slipping into their simple, but efficient, holiday format.

Each morning after a real belt-bursting breakfast, you set off on your choice of walk with one of the guides.

The walks are graded as low, medium and high level - aimed to suit every level of fitness, from the challenging walks that lift your spirits to the more sedate, less taxing that I joined.

The only slightly off-putting aspect of the break is you have to order the following night's dinner immediately after eating your meal the previous evening.

A full board, three-day HF Holidays Classic Walking break, including all meals and drinks, costs from around £130 a head.

For a brochure and a wide range of other holiday options, call 020-8905-9556, normal office hours weekdays, or write to: HF Holidays, Imperial House, Edgware Road, London NW9 5AL.

E-mail: info@hfholidays.co.uk.