British Food Fortnight is a few weeks off yet - Westmorland decided not to wait.

At last Thursday's county show, held at Crooklands, the theme of the first ever national celebration of real British food and drink was illustrated in all its delicious glory in the two giant marquees together boasting more than 40 exhibitors.

The official food fortnight - which kicks off on October 26 - aims to nurture a renaissance in the pleasures of buying and eating British food and, in doing so, to help strengthen local food networks; to increase awareness that British food is of the highest quality and meets the most stringent safety standards; and, most importantly, to build awareness that failure to buy British food and, in particular, small volume and specialist foods such as regional meats and cheeses, will result in the large-scale loss of our farms and rural businesses.

County show-goers had obviously already taken this message to heart.

Of the 25,000-strong crowd attending the record-breaking event, food hall co-ordinators reckoned that just about every one of them passed through the marquees at some point during the day.

Sarah Williams, of Made in Cumbria Food, had thoughtfully laid on a 'creche' where shoppers could leave their purchases in special cool boxes.

From behind her mountain of ice-packed polystyrene containers, Sarah told Food & Drink: "There have been thousands and thousands in here."

Such has been the phenomenal growth in locally-produced food that a few years ago there were only a paltry four stalls to browse at the county show.

This year, foodies could feast on an amazing 46.

There were also two special demonstration kitchens featuring such diverse delights as 'bacon curing made easy' with Endmoor wild boar farmer and food entrepreneur Peter Gott; 'how to make butter the old-fashioned way' with Sue Forrester of 'Cream of Cumbria'; and 'how to spice up your life' with the help of Joanne Wilson of Sarah Nelson's Grasmere Gingerbread.

This cross between a biscuit and a cake has been baked fresh every day since 1854 at the famous Gingerbread Shop in Grasmere and has, therefore, become a part of the region's culinary heritage.

Last year, however, it seemed that more recent converts to the local food cause were unlikely to follow in Sarah Nelson's footsteps.

When foot-and-mouth reared its ugly head these small businesses - often run from ordinary domestic kitchens - could no longer rely on the farmers' markets which had become so vital to their success.

Everyone held their breath and prayed.

It not only worked, but the collective will which won over the general public has now brought about the very 'renaissance' which the autumn's British Food Fortnight is hoping to inspire in the rest of the country.

Cumbria is fortunate - not only in the many specialist food producers it boasts, but also in its 'champions' who appear to have made a lasting impression on Clarissa Dickson-Wright - one of the country's larger-than-life ambassadors for our culinary heritage.

"You have got some wonderful proactive people," lauded Clarissa.

Peter Gott, for example, who attends London's famous Borough Market every weekend with an array of Cumbrian produce; Stuart Higginson, the Grange-over-Sands butcher voted Britain's best; and Les Salisbury, of Furness Fish Poultry and Game Supplies, producers of Morecambe Bay Potted shrimps, among other things - "the delicacy of the North".

In fact, shrimps will be on the menu when Clarissa is next filming in the area, as well the mouthwatering salt marsh lamb currently being promoted by Holker Hall.

To local food producers, especially new ones, Clarissa had this heartening message: " Keep at it.

It takes time to get your product into the public eye.

But if you know it's good, keep at it."

As for those consumers who don't yet support local and speciality food producers, Clarissa added: "What you eat will be reaped in your health bills in future decades.

Make sure you get it right.

Eat proper food, as it's meant to be produced."