At first glance, the dull, shimmering setting in the steep-sided, disused clay pit look almost like giant sheets of discarded bubble wrap. But driving closer, the true nature of these huge, transparent domes is revealed: they are the living, breathing homes to flowers, plants, shrubs and trees from countries far from our shores.

The Eden Project has already made a massive impact on local tourism since it opened a year ago at St. Austell in Cornwall. Thousands of enthusiastic gardeners and lovers of flora and fauna have made it their new focal point for holidays in the area.

In fact, it is not surprising that the industrious Tourist Board bills this sprawling, diverse county as an inspirational destination.

But here's a real surprise visitors are actually advised NOT to drop into the Eden Project if it is raining! Because the number of sightseers has already doubled predicted levels, and, on days when it rains, the attraction simply cannot handle them all. And no wonder, because any budding Alan Titchmarsh or Charlie Dimmock will find something to confound, intrigue, delight and explore in these, the world's biggest greenhouses.

The domes, or to give them their correct name, bio-therms, are home to astounding and exciting collection of botanical environments. One is dedicated to the fruits and flowers of the Mediterranean, South Africa and California. The other, a majestic rain forest cathedral with palm trees, jungle vegetation and a splendid waterfall.

More remarkable is the fact that just about every flower, shrub, plant and tree from each region grows in blissful harmony is the sensitively controlled and heated environment.

In the tropical dome, you actually believe you are entering the very heart of a jungle - in fact the only things missing is the sounds of the wild life.

Even on a blustery winter's day - The Eden Project only closes on Christmas Day - you'll be advised to wear short-sleeved summer kit.

And to make sure visitors don't get too overheated, there are warning signs, pointing to small pathways off the main routes, which read: 'Too hot? First chance to leave for 30 minutes'

But perhaps this glorious adventure is best summed up by another sign which says the Eden's Project's mission is to 'reflect on the forces of nature in the knowledge we are part of it '

You certainly feel that in the temperate Mediterranean zone - with its heady aromas of herbs, plants and trees. Close your eyes and it is easy to believe you are in Spain or the Greek Islands.

Everything is very 'touchy, feely' with giant, sealed terracotta pots inviting you to sniff and identify their contents.

Now there are plans to build a third dome to house the arid regions of the world - so desert explorers look out!

My base for my Cornish adventure was the homely Tregurrian Hotel just 100 yards from the glorious sandy reaches of Watergate Bay, a tiny hamlet four miles from Newquay.

A bed and breakfast break starts from just £59 a head for a three-night in March next year, with a half-board, week-long break in May, including a three-course dinner with coffee, costing from £179 each.

It was here I was to experience another memorable and glorious reminder of Cornwall.

Out on the lovely beach, swept clean by the tide, set against a magnificent backdrop of creamy-topped breakers, I watched some of the world's finest compete in the latest designer sport, surf-kiting.

With a pint of locally-brewed ale on one hand and a traditional pastie at my elbow, I was at peace with the world

And, when I finally decided to lever myself from the horizontal, it was to visit the host of stunningly pretty seaside towns clinging to the rugged coast.

Padstow is a real gem of a town. In fact, its cute shops, cafes and restaurants mark it down as everything a really British seaside resort should be.

And its most famous resident, Rick Stein, the TV chef who has brought a whole new meaning to fish without chips, has a beautiful restaurant and cookery school here. But if you want to ensure a table - book now because it is full up for months ahead!

Ken Bennett travelled as guest of Travelsmith Holidays and the Cornwall Tourist Board.

For details and bookings at The Tregurrian Hotel call: Travelsmith Holidays on: 01621 784666 or 0870 7481000 (24 hours), or write to The Tregurrian Hotel, Watergate Bay, Cornwall TR8 4AB.

Eden Project information and opening times, including group bookings, call: 01726 811911, write to them at Bodelva, St. Austell, Cornwall PL24 2SG. Or visit their website: www.edenproject.com

For an information pack on Cornwall, contact: Cornwall Tourist Board, Pydar House, Pydar Street, Truro, Cornwall TE1 1EA. Tel: 01872 322907.

Virgin Trains operate regular services to all Cornish destinations. Call national rail in 084557 484950 or contact Virgin Trains direct on their website: www.virgin.com/trains for train information and a link through to their booking facilities.

January 2, 2003 15:30