When, in the late 70s, Ruth Wharton departed Kirkby Stephen for a short holiday on the Greek island of Antiparos, all the signs were that she would be staying far longer than a fortnight.

Unlike Shirley Valentine, it wasn't for love. Some of it was the artist in her, some of it was the 60s wild child thing. More of it was Ruth deciding to stay because she was bored with life back home.

Fortunately, she bumped into Kalamaras', a bit of a celebrity on the island and the owner of a Greek restaurant in London. The meeting resulted in work looking after his boats and other business interests. Meanwhile, to keep her artistic hand in, Ruth did some etching and became the island's official wedding photographer.

All went swimmingly for two or three years and then there was a chance encounter at the local well between Ruth's horse and a mule belonging to one of the islanders. His son was a sailor - "a lovely, handsome sailor" - and the sailor and Ruth fell in love.

They were going to run a restaurant but had two children Joanna and George - instead. Ruth refused to marry the sailor, despite repeated requests. No big fat Greek wedding for her, primarily because Ruth had discovered that if she married the sailor and they subsequently split up, under the Greek dowry system all she would walk away with was a sewing machine.

Let's just say that cultural differences eventually led to the demise of the relationship and Ruth left Greece with Joanna and George rather than just a sewing machine.

Back first in Kendal, three-year-old Joanna started at Brantfield Nursery, and Ruth began looking for work. Jobs included part-time teaching and typesetting. One of them also brought her briefly into the offices of The Westmorland Gazette cleaning the telephones.

I remember the lady who never smiled.

"It wasn't an easy life. We just couldn't make ends meet and I missed Greece," recalled Ruth.

So much so that in 1993 she sold up and took the children back. "I decided to jump before I was pushed."

During her brief time back in the UK Ruth had made many new friends and they came out to visit her new home on the island of Naxos, which is where she met the new love of her life Achilles. His father was in the olive oil business and Ruth's guests were mightily impressed with the dressing his oil made for her salads.

Someone suggested it would go down a storm in Cumbria, a thought which had already occurred to Ruth. And so, in autumn 2000, Perivoli (the garden) was born.

Ruth, Achilles and the children set sail for Keswick and the olive oil followed to Kirkby Stephen where Ruth had an old mate with space for a wagon-load of barrels. Unfortunately the first deal with a leading supermarket chain fell through so Ruth took a bottle of the oil to Keith McClure, of Windermere-based wholesalers W. McClure Ltd.

"He being a good person he took it on and has stocked it ever since," said Ruth. Indeed, McClures has continued to support Ruth's venture by selling her products, even providing cold storage for her Greek feta cheese.

Meanwhile, Achilles no heel he came up with the bright idea of standing Kendal market. The public couldn't get enough. And so the range expanded honey from Dimitris the beekeeper (his bees are so high in the hills he has to protect them from marauding Winnie the Poohs. Dimitris even takes them on holiday to the seaside so they can feast on the orange blossom).

And there's Bill the garlic man', and Vayia the olive lady'.

"We bring in Vayia's olives then marinade them ourselves at our unit in Threlkeld," explained Ruth, who now lives near Penrith. Varieties include chilli and cumin olives, lemon and oregano, and the most popular, basil and garlic.

"We make our own hummus too."

There's feta from Arcadia. And Greek Delight (loukoumia), made by a neighbour of the beekeeper. It's less sweet than its Turkish counterpart.

"We sold a hundred kilos at Christmas," said Ruth, who travels to Greece at least twice a year to stay with the farmers who supply her and spends the rest of her time passionately sharing stories about where her products come from with those Perivoli customers prepared to listen. And there are plenty.

Whatever the argument about food miles, Ruth's products do come direct from the farm it just so happens that the farm is in Greece.

"These ingredients are real, quality, no additives, no preservatives. Peasant food, if you like."

Perfect for me then and the Perivoli following at weekend markets in Kendal (Ruth's favourite), Lancaster ("we have a mission to feed the students"), and Keswick.

Perivoli is also available in Church Mouse Cheeses, at Kirkby Lonsdale, the new M6 Westmorland Services farm shops, and at farmers' markets including Carlisle, Manchester, Leeds and Liverpool.

Ruth also dreams of Covent Garden - but she doesn't want to have to say sorry.

"My ambition is to stop apologising to people because we can't keep up with demand. That's why we don't want to grow any more."

Ruth has given the business to her children. And when they're not at university (Joanna studying English and philosophy at Leeds and George international relations at the London School of Economics), they lend a helping hand.

Ruth's mainstay, however, is another single mum, Libby Scott, from Keswick, who usually looks after the Kendal market stall. Dan Prentice takes care of Keswick.

As for Achilles he's in Germany, busy planning a new restaurant.

"We're still friends," said Ruth. "The customers loved him."

And Ruth loves her customers.

"Some of them have been with us right from the very beginning. The customers have been wonderful."

Check out Perivoli on the web at http://www.perivoli.org.uk or tel: 017684-82137

April 17, 2003 09:00