Sipping a glass of elegant local red wine protected from the late afternoon sun by a cool, white canopy, I am transported back in timeI am relaxing at a roadside bar watching the world gently glide by. But what a world.

Nut-brown market stall-holders are enjoying the friendly banter with head-scarved housewives pawing over fruit and vegetables for the very best produce for their supper table.

The still air is perfumed with the tantalising smell of golden roast chicken baking on a spit - it is a scene from 20 or, then again, maybe 30 years ago.

I can stick it no longer. Leaving behind the rapidly drained wine glass, I am impatient to join Mrs B the throng of shoppers in Guilvinec market. But before I know it, I find myself moving to the same rhythm of the soothing Brittany dialect.

I knew we had struck gold as we wandered along the almost never-ending road, winding its way around this tiny fishing village. Slowly, our basket filled with fresh, soft ripe cheese, long thin baguettes, still oven-warm, and plump, dark green olives.

Loaded with produce that would have chef Jamie Oliver sharpening his kitchen knives in excited anticipation, we want to hurry home. But here no one ever presses the accelerator pedal: the pace is slow and ultra easy in this corner of very French soil on the coast of South West Brittany.

Instead we amble along, out of this pleasantly, pastel-shaded town, down a pretty coastal path leading to the campsite which has been our home for the past few days. Strange, but I can't believe we have not been here much, much longer.

Brittany, like other regions of France, has a very rich and distinct history which is all its own. It was a Celtic Duchy for more than a thousand years before it was annexed to France way back in 1532.

A visit to the newly-opened Breton Museum in the area's capital, Quimper, just 12 miles from our base, underpins what makes the region so special.

Stretching languidly along the River O'det, the La Cornoualle region was given its name from the ancient Celts who fled here from Cornwall.

Quimper itself is very pretty - tall, thin shops and houses set on sloping riverbanks. And, next to the museum, a striking cathedral with twin spires reaches skyward.

But one of its proudest boasts is that it is home to the artists colony of the famous School of Pont-Aven led by the legendary artists Paul Gaugiun.

And, in the sincere belief that artists know how to eat well, I was off again in search of grub that would make gourmets weep with joy.

Giant crabs, shells the size of small dinner plates can be handpicked here and to satisfy an instant hunger rush immerse yourself in a cushion of handmade Breton crepes, bursting with rich, dark chocolate, for just over a pound a piece.

But I was still drawn back to our delightful campsite simply because it was absolutely nothing like the vision of huddling under canvas on a cold English hillside.

Although highly substantial tents were on offer, we opted for a stay in a mobile home, which, uncannily, favoured the picture in the holiday brochure.

And, although the bedrooms were smaller than we'd anticipated, the actual living space far exceeded our expectations. There was a large table with blue, shaker-style kitchen units, highly efficient gas oven, microwave and more utensils than even Jamie would need!

And a quiet beach, almost picture-postcard perfect, with acres of soft white sand was just 200 yards from our front door. However, the subtle shift of sand by the tide made each day an adventure in itself, discovering hidden secrets of newly-formed rock pools including sea anemones, glinting silver fish and, of course, lumbering crabs.

A small bar at the heart of the campsite was the focal point for entertainment and, I must say, the weekly disco under a carpet of twinkling stars took some beating!

Sensibly, a noise restriction, in force between 11pm and 7am, meant guests were ensured a good night's sleep too.

Ken Bennett travelled to Guilvinec as a guest of Canvas Holidays.

High season bookings are very tight this year. However, if you can travel at the end of August, a family of two adults and up to four children can stay in a holiday home for £821, with return short-sea ferry crossings for a car and passengers.

Canvas has a wide programming of camping and mobile home holidays in a choice of other European countries including Italy, Spain and Germany, For brochures and information, call: 08709-022-022 or visit their website: http://www.canvasholidays.com

April 24, 2003 10:30