A RETIRED naval officer from Glenridding braved avalanches and thunderstorms to notch up the first ascent of a 20,954-feet Himalayan peak on skis, writes Rachel Kitchen.

Former lieutenant commander John Gay, 53, has just returned from India's Garhwal Himalaya region home of the bearded vulture and snow leopard where he and seven fellow Eagle Ski Club members climbed Kalanag, the highest mountain of the Bandarpunch massif.

"I've done many years of ski mountaineering in the Alps, and I thought really I should spread my wings because I've never, ever done anything in the Himalaya," said Mr Gay, ex-Patterdale Mountain Rescue Team deputy leader, "and if I left it too long I would be too old!"

Kalanag has been climbed before, but this was the first ski ascent and descent. Ascending a mountain on skis requires bindings with a heel release, and "skins" made of mohair or nylon which let the skis glide, turn uphill and grip the snow. Crampons are attached in particularly icy conditions. When skiing downhill the bindings are locked, and skins and crampons removed.

Led by international guide Rob Collister, the skiers were battered by thunderstorms and heavy snow as they spent a week gaining height.

Reaching 20,954 feet took six more days. On summit day Mr Gay was last to leave camp, and feared he may miss the summit bid. But he got into his stride and, 600 feet from the top, the team shed their skis and used ice axes and crampons to complete their climb.

"The best moment was actually reaching the summit, because I was really dog tired," said Mr Gay. "But sitting on the summit having my photograph taken, that was the best."

The climbers abseiled off the summit, then picked up their skis and reached their highest camp in just 40 minutes. Next day they skied down ice falls and the great Kalanag glacier in just five hours.

Their feat will be recorded in the Indian Mountaineering Federation's archives.

Asked about his next expedition, Mr Gay laughed: "My wife has got a list of DIY jobs for me, that's the priority. I think towards autumn I might start thinking what I can do next year. Now I'm just happy to be back."

May 9, 2003 11:00