Bargain hunting in Dubai

But, as he casually rubs it with his thumb and holds it to the intense light, all is revealed: It is a diamond. A very big diamond indeed.

I ask its worth in a guarded whisper and, with a patronising smile of the seriously rich, he says: "About one million pounds."

However, in truth, no one in this remarkable desert kingdom is really fazed about money. For a start, there is no personal tax in Dubai and everything you buy is tax-free.

Even better for visitors, with our pound strong against a weak dollar, a holiday to the world's Aladdin's Cave must be a serious option, particularly if you are looking to make a really showbiz impact with jewellery or fashion.

And, unlike this million pound whopper on display at a champagne reception in a swanky downtown hotel, stunning diamond necklaces, ear rings and glorious fashion accessories are available at prices guaranteed to earn you a thousand kisses from your sweetheart.

Marilu, my witty South American guide, whisked me around these mind-blowing temples of hedonism, pausing occasionally while I salivated over a totally unaffordable object of my wife's desire.

My whirlwind trip started at the Wafi Shopping Centre, the most upmarket mall, which oozes celebrity fashion and eye-watering price tags. If you've got the money and want to flaunt it, then this is the place to really get giddy.

However, notch your aspirations down a little, and you could find some decent bargains at the 200 shops at the Deira City Centre.

Alternatively, in a collection of unimpressive breeze block buildings, Karama in Bur Dubai promises a wealth of imitation goods from fake designer T-shirts to the obligatory handbags.

Personally, though, I'd advise you absorb what is on sale first before dipping into your wallet.

For example, the gold souk at Deira is well worth a visit: but give yourself time to identify and target your planned purchase from the myriad of necklaces, chains and rings festooning the brightly-lit stalls.

If you are looking for a cheap digital camera, mini-disc player or stereo, you'd be hard-pressed to beat the prices at the electronic souk in Bur Dubai.

However, whatever you do, make sure you haggle for a bargain. It's all part of the purchasing ritual.

Start by asking the shop owner for his best price' - then begin whittling him down. Haggling is fun and good-natured transactions are often hammered out over tiny glasses of intensely sweet tea or a welcoming cold can of lemonade.

In any event, I promise, play your cards right, and you can leave well satisfied with a genuine bargain.

But if, like me, you've shopped until you've almost dropped, belt up and roar off into the desert on a four-wheeled drive Gulf Ventures jeep safari.

Less than 30 minutes from the city's glittering centre, you can make a hot date with a belly dancer and take part in some therapeutic dune bashing' on a wildly bucking drive through the wilderness.

The dimpled sand, rising and falling ahead of your four-wheel drive, may look a soft touch, yet hit at high speed, strange things happen.

Our hulking jeep, the lead vehicle in a convoy, with six startled trippers on board, ground to a halt straddling a mini-mountain of unforgiving sand like a see-saw.

We had shed a tyre but everyone, including tourists from the other vehicles, piled in to help as the drivers deftly sprung it back on to the wheel rim.

The interlude gave us the chance to appreciate the real beauty and solitude of the desert as the smouldering, setting sun cast long shadows across miles and miles of emptiness.

Then, in the gathering gloom, we shared the happy innocence of a display of belly dancing under the mantle of stars.

Ringed by a circle of camels, we lolled (a beautiful word) on rich hand-woven carpets and cushions as the luscious dark-haired belly dancer gave an enthralling performance.

Smiling caterers, in long white robes, served delicious spiced lamb, chicken, mounds of delicately flavoured rice and plump dates and figs.

Suddenly, it was party time and I found myself, along with jeep companions, being guided on to the hastily-prepared carpeted stage to shake and wriggle.

All thoughts of shopping vanished. I was here in real Dubai away from the magnetic trappings of new century life - and I loved it.

Hot tips:

Huge prices for alcohol could have you signing the pledge. Buy duty-free on your way in.

Check the price your hotel charges for airport transfers a taxi could be cheaper. Ensure you book restaurants and spa treatments well in advance.

To avoid the UK's winter excesses, breaks are recommended between December and May. Although winter thunderstorms can be daunting, it normally only rains on two days a month. April and November are transitional months and from mid-May to October, the combination of furnace heat and stifling humidity could cause problems for unprepared tourists. However, Dubai is launching high-profile festivals across all the seasons and there are marvellous golf courses and other sporting activities plus family programmes and memorable nightlife.