Cruising on the high seas

Viewed from 13 storeys high, the sea resembled black, shifting silk as we eased away from the sunshine island to the strains of a band playing We Are Sailing.

Yes, we were indeed sailing, most seriously and with high delight, on the illustrious and redoubtable QE2.

Below me, on the wide, sweeping aft deck, some of the 1,700 happy passengers danced to the music until gradually, almost imperceptibly, Las Palma became a flattening, vanishing dot in the haze of the setting sun.

But here, on the ship's bridge, the quiet was only disturbed by the warm winds, humming through the rigging like a distinctive, well-tuned harp, as we batted into the night.

Despite her age she's now into her mature 30s - QE2 has lost absolutely nothing of her style, grace and pace that leaves the other fatter, squatter and more gaudy ships plying the cruise routes floundering in her purposeful, foaming wake.

The real difference is, of course, that she is a liner. Sadly now, the last of a rare breed. This is a Queen fashioned by master craftsmen determined to wring every ounce of speed from her rakish steel hull on pulverising Atlantic crossings to New York and trips around the world.

Yet, five million sea miles later, staring down at the florescent sea from an ear-piece on the bridge, I marvelled that our navigation instruments showed her 963ft length, weighing in at more than 70,000 tons, was being propelled effortlessly along at an unperturbed 28.5 knots.

And despite the arrival of her new, huge running mate, QM2, there is something eternally endearing about this Queen.

In fact, it's no secret that Cunard Line have faced a mammoth task wooing loyal QE2 travellers to change their comfortable habits and switch to holidays on the new ship.

No wonder. Because life on board QE2 has the same satisfaction of your favourite pair of shoes: reassuring, familiar and reliable.

Most of the passengers have travelled with her before some more than 20 times. Yes, be reassured, these are regulars that won't jump ship.

However, once QE2 begins regular cruising in May from Southampton after a refurbishment, I predict a new set of curious, first-timers will clamour for a new stylish life on the ocean waves.

For starters, you only have to examine just what is included in your package to realise that cruising really is very good value for money.

For example, there is a prestigious round-Britain cruise, dropping in at Liverpool, and an exciting range of Mediterranean and other short-haul options. With prices slashed by 45 per cent, a three-day break can cost as little as £399 a head less than a weekend break to London.

My trip, which included Madeira and a whistle-stop tour of the Canary Islands, was filled with a controlled whirl of almost non-stop activities and fun.

From early morning, right through the night, you can dine, dance and be entertained by top-flight artists. Or, then again, settle down to a thought-provoking lecture, a good film or borrow a book from the well-stocked library. And it all comes as part of the package.

You can learn how to fold napkins for a dinner party (honest, it's true!), ballroom dance or take part in deck games and clay pigeon shooting.

You can have a flutter on a gaming table, buy some of the finest clothes and perfumes from an astounding range of on-board shops and be pampered in the beauty salon.

If you believed that cruising was aimed at the blue-rinse brigade, then don't bother booking: you could not be more out of tune with holidays in 2004. I was surrounded by scores of happy young couples and families who, sensibly, settled on a cruising as a more stylish, exciting alternative to the ritualistic beach break on the Costas.

And, although there are on-shore excursions every day, like me, many passengers were happy to chill out with a drink on a sun lounger.

Then, of course, there is the incredible, daily round of feasting. Okay, I know Cunard won't thank me to revealing this, but you can literally eat your way around the clock.

In between breakfast, lunch and dinner, there are numerous, satisfying breaks to pack away homemade cakes, sandwiches and coffee. And, if it's midnight and you are still hungry, head aft for tasty stir-fry, casserole or bin-lid sized burgers. I promise you won't be dining alone That said, I never managed to get past the wonderful five-course dinners any night. Away from all the eating, drinking and dancing, the other real joy of a cruise on QE2 is meeting other passengers who all have stories to tell.

The sprightly grandma from Buckinghamshire for example, who. instead of leaving her nieces and nephews something in her will, decided to blow the lot on a cruise and joined them for all the on-board fun and frolics too.

I met a stately elderly lady from America who has spent two years living, full-time, on board the ship since the death of her husband.

There was a family of 13 from the Midlands who did not want to reveal their identity, but take two holiday breaks on board every year.

However, it is worth remembering though, you will need to keep a careful eye on your spends. No cash is accepted on board and drink accounts and other items, along with a service charge, have to be settled before you disembark.

As a tip, if you think you are in danger of going overboard on a spending spree, check your account each day at the Purser's Office they'll be happy to oblige.

And don't let seasickness put you off travelling. A fully-equipped doctor's surgery provides anti-sickness jabs costing around £14 which will last all voyage.