THE scuffed pair of trainers, emblazoned with the Union flag, stuck out defiantly from under a hedge at the dusty roadside It is 7am and the blanched, shattered remnants of the drunken British youth army, were staggering, crawling or in the case of this unidentified pair of pale hairy legs sleeping off the excesses of another night on the bash.

If you were to believe the media hype, the Greek island of Rhodes would be firmly crossed off your list of likely holiday options.

But I promise you'd be making a very big mistake if you thought a break here would be wrecked by the shameful behaviour of the young whose only intention is to wallow in an almost seemingly endless lake of booze.

Sure, it is very hard to ignore the wild antics that take place in Faliraki, once a quiet and rather humble fishing village, that now, sadly, is seen as the epicentre of puke and pull breaks'. The local police have imposed a crackdown, but the tiny streets are still a magnet for rowdy young Brits lured by cheap drinks.

But that does not or must not make Rhodes a tainted, septic isle.

Truth is, as any seasoned traveller or tour operator will confirm, families and couples who steer clear of Faliraki are guaranteed excellent, quality holiday breaks at a host of hotels and resorts across the island.

Amathus Hotels, for example, have a fine pedigree in providing deluxe accommodation coupled with a top range of fitness and leisure facilities. They are proud of their loyal following of UK travellers who make up a high percentage of their successful repeat business.

The Rodian Amathus Beach Hotel, where I made my base, claims in the glossy brochure, soothing pleasures, inviting waters, all fringed by lush greenery.' And, I am happy to report, it's all true.

In reality, outside the one, horizontal comatosed roadside Brit, I did not see anything of the troubles which have dented the island's reputation.

The hotel's real underlying strengths, however, are top of the range fitness, sport and leisure facilities, and excellent cuisine. Perish the thought of a paper wrapping or an empty beer bottle ever being seen near the hotel's famous rooftop swimming pool.

Prices start at just £455 per person for seven nights accommodation in a twin room on a half-board basis, including direct flights and transfers. And the hotel's location in Ixia, a short ride west of Rhodes town, is an ideal spot to launch your expeditions.

Rhodes town itself is split into two interesting sections. The Old Town is a walled medieval city of quaint, cobbled streets with excellent restaurants if you probe behind the layer of tacky tourist shops.

Head for the remote, less glamorous spots: Kasbah on Plantanos Street, for example, offers real Mediterranean and ethnic cuisine, or try Alexis or Fotis, famous for their Greek-style sea-fresh fish.

As a complete counterpoint, Thavma En Kairo English translation Wonders - restaurant offers al fresco dining for an impressive international menu, an excellent wine list and impeccable service. A little more expensive, but worth every Euro. Local buses are a cheap way to travel. They are reliable and call at most of the interesting island destinations. Taxis are plentiful and can be hired for a half or full-day tour with your own private guide for a very reasonable fee.

Personally, I chose to hire a car it's one certain way of ensuring you find the very best of the island's hidden jewels. I headed west to Trianda village for a coffee at the Mesogios Taverna. It's hard to miss because the owner, Yianni, keeps his fishing boat parked on the roof! And the genial owner ensures the very best of home cooking because it is all prepared by his mother.

At nearby Siana, a spent a relaxing couple of hours sampling the famous local thyme honey, and a glass of home-brewed Suma, the speciality local liquor.

Later, I headed the Attaviros Mountains, the highest and undoubtedly prettiest point on the island, with its winding roads and forests providing welcoming shade from the unremitting heat.

It was here, at Profitis Ilias, I discovered a house, built high on the slopes, which was once the home of Mussolini during the Italian occupation and later home to the King before his fall from grace and subsequent exile.

And if you only make one visit, I recommend Lindos, one of the three founding cities of ancient Rhodes. It is a traffic free village of beautiful whitewashed houses and tiny streets tumbling down to the sea.

Of course, if you are prepared to journey off the beaten track, there are scores of delightful private beaches. Laze in the secret bay of Agathi or St Paul's, both idyllic places for an early evening swim and not a soul for miles.

But hush, what's this? Suddenly, I hear the sound of music and laugher is it the invading Brits?

But no: I am in Maritsa, where there seems to be festivities every night. Here, the whole population sits out on the street in the evenings and there are a vast number of ouseries, tavernas and super restaurants.

And do you know something: there was not one bawdy Brit or a battered pair of trainers anywhere in sight happy days!

- Ken Bennett was the guest at the five-star Rodian Amathus Beach Hotel, just eight miles from Diagoras International Airport.

The hotel has 280 standard rooms with en-suite bathrooms and private balconies or terraces, 31 split-level family suites and 28 bungalows set into the hillside over the coastal resort of Ixia.

The hotel is featured in many British tour operators brochures, call your local travel agent, or write to: Rodian Amathus Beach Hotel, PO Box 229, 11, Iraklidon Avenue, 85101 Ixia, Rhodes, Greece. Tel: 0030 224 89900; email: rodian-beach@rodosnet.gr or visit their website: www.rodian-beach.gr.