SOME believe the heritage sign of a great city or destination is when a tune has been named after it.

But when The Beautiful South wrote the lyric, "this could be Rotterdam or anywhere," I think they did Holland's second city a disservice.

Because although at first view, it does not have obvious landmark tourists attractions, in reality, Rotterdam has its own very distinctive charm and a bustling energy.

For starters, it is Europe's largest port and proud of it. From a humble fishing village in the 1500s, it's grown to a vast hub of international and world trade rolling out along the River Maas.

And its working heritage has spawned a saying: The shirts are sold in Rotterdam with the sleeves already rolled up.' Underpinning that ethic, immediately the war ended, the inner city, devastated by a bombing raid, reinvented itself with a dynamic rebuilding programme and now offers a spacious feel with modern, often courageous architecture.

This year it holds the City of Architecture title and gives visitors a chance to share the sites and hear the stories of its success, coupled with exhibitions.

The array of buildings is fantastic, from the grand, restored Post Office and the quaint old Whitehouse' on the harbour side, to modern skyscrapers - one with an overhang at the top - and the towering Euromast.

But most unique are the yellow cube houses, which are like giant boxes turned on their side and fitted together. Take a peep into the show house - all the others are occupied.

And full marks to a route map of a tourist walk, Once around Rotterdam, which gave loads of useful tips, including where to get a great cup of coffee and the best times to see cool jazz concerts: UK cities take note.

Bargain-hunters will find shopping a real adventure with stores open seven days a week and eight specially-dedicated shopping routes with their own character and ambience.

If it's posh you're after, dip into the fashion district, between Kruiskade and Van Oldenbarneveltstraat (gosh, don't they have long names!). Here stylish boutiques and trendy stores are peppered with inviting lunchrooms and unique gift shops.

Hip and freaky shoppers looking for something special should take in the cultural streets packed with striking spicy lingerie to the very latest hi-tech accessories.

Personally, I enjoyed an historically-intimate tour round Delfshaven, where antique shops and craftsmen have set up among cosy bars and attractive pavement cafes.

And its mixture of ancient and very modern make it a must-see weekend destination with a new non-stop VLM service from Manchester complementing its London City service.

For a bizarre dining experience, try the huge Space Burger. Incidentally, the space' does not refer to the ingredients that make neighbouring Amsterdam's cakes' so notorious, but luminous green mustard. It's tasty but don't let the mustard drip on your hand - the stains take some shifting.

In the rest of Holland, Rotterdam is known as a city of festivals - with jazz, pop and classical music, and international film festivals blossoming all year round. It also has a thrusting nightlife and growing dance scene where techno records mix funky styles with harder edge, Rotterdam-style offerings.

Techno music is hugely popular and several local dance music DJs are big European names. Specialist club nights are organised for anyone aged from 16-middle age.

Rotterdam or anywhere? Hmmm Beautiful South - eat your heart out.

l Ken Bennett visited Rotterdam as guest of VLM Airlines, which has launched a new non-stop service from Manchester with two flights each weekday and one flight every Sunday.

Prices start from £25 per person one-way, excluding taxes and surcharges. VLM Airlines also offers nine return flights each weekday from London City to Rotterdam. Prices start from £25 per person one-way, excluding taxes and surcharges. For reservations and information, call 0871-666-5050 or visit www.flyvlm.com.

Standard rooms at the Hilton Rotterdam start from approx £82 per room per night. For reservations, call 08705-909090 or visit: www.hilton.co.uk.

For more information on Rotterdam, visit: www.rotterdam.info/uk.