DESPITE losing its bid for Britain's first super Casino, KEN BENNETT discovers Blackpool is still fighting for its own place in the sun in 2007 The winsome tune, The Long and Winding Road, barrels me along a promenade where the only high rollers are the steel grey troughs of sea gouging the rain-stippled shore.

It flows over the jumble of gaudily-painted souvenir shops, and garish, neon-lit and tinselled arcades that make up Blackpool.

If you want cheap and cheerful, they do it large in Blackpool: very large. But, as a counterpoint, they are still pulling in more than ten million tourists a year with punters seeking good value breaks at prices that won't send their credit cards into meltdown.

The advent of quality holiday centres, cheap flights and a surge in seaside destinations along the south coast have gradually taken their toll on this north west frontier land of fun.

And despite suffering a major blow when the country's first super casino' was awarded to Manchester, tourist chiefs still believe Blackpool is on the long and winding road to a return to good fortune.

An impressive new, chic seafront promenade wall development is creating a contemporary vista and Jane Seddon, director of tourism, says the world-famous Illuminations - the busiest time for the resort - are receiving a designer makeover by lifestyle guru Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen.

Walking along the quiet seafront, you can't help believe the optimism: Blackpool has a surprising, almost uncanny knack of bouncing back. Unashamedly brash, blousy and contrary she may be, but somehow, she still holds an edge on reinventing herself.

For example, here at South Shore, a sedate, rather reserved classically handsome 1930s house is leaving an indelible mark as a pointer to the future of encouraging new, more discerning tourists.

Pass through the red front door and you are in Number One Blackpool: a boutique bed and breakfast but definitely not as we know it.

None of those fabled plastic signs warning unsuspecting visitors must be in bed by the 10.30pm curfew. Or reminders to bring your own plug for the hand wash basin.

Since opening just over two years ago, Claire and Mark Smith have proved Number One Blackpool is just that: Number One, not just in Blackpool, but the North West too, claiming the North West Tourism Award for 2006 for small bed and breakfast.

Their refreshingly open-handed, quality approach to accommodation and food has proved they are really switched on in a town that hosts the world's biggest, brightest free light show in the world.

There are just three bedrooms which are each stylishly and innovatively different.

Throw back the Egyptian cotton sheets on the wide, low-slung king-sized bed with floaty Siberian duck down pillows and wallow on a mattress as comforting as a basin of warm marshmallows.

There is a bewildering array of techno-kit, including a huge plasma TV, CD, DVD and even video games too. And, on tables at each side of the bed, smart, hand-stitched leather boxes hold everything from a corkscrew to a reel of Sellotape.

For breakfast, read banquet. In fact, the Smiths are so proud of their range and selection of food - from sea fresh fish to local eggs - they provide a separate menu' listing their suppliers.

Meantime, just around the corner, The Big Blue Hotel at the Pleasure Beach has been voted the best family hotel in Britain in the Trip Advisor Travellers' Choice Awards - only one of 20 British destinations to make the list.

With 84 unique family rooms offering a separate children's sleeping area, each child's bunk bed has its own built-in TV and Playstation consoles available, and games and DVDs for hire.

Rollercoasters whizz past the hotel's windows with the park's 125 rides and attractions right next door.

The park's managing director, Amanda Thomson, is planning to spend another million pounds this year to improve visitors' expectations, including a brand new ride, Infusion, which will soar through a whirlwind water experience.

An intriguing new show, Forbidden, launching on July 6, promises flirty fun and fabulous entertainment.

And Hot Ice, celebrating its 70th year, premieres on March 28, featuring a dazzling host of skating stars.

One of the resort's secret treasures, the beautifully-restored Grand Theatre, the National Theatre of Variety, has a vibrant line-up of top musicals, including Girls' Night starring Coronation Street's Shobna Gulati; and Broadway 42nd Street with Paul Nicholas.

And, just to keep this feisty, unpredictable resort's reputation very much alive, the Pleasure Beach has unearthed an antique earring, believed to belong to actress and entertainer Marlene Dietrich.

Yes now that really IS Blackpool for you!

Travel information...

Ken Bennett was a guest at Number One Blackpool where the cost of an overnight stay, including breakfast and use of the facilities, starts from £60 per person per night, double occupancy. Singles from £70. To book, click on: www.numberoneblackpool.com, call 01253-343901 or write to: Number One, One St Luke's Road, South Shore, Blackpool, FY4 2EL.

For Blackpool Pleasure Beach, telephone 0870-444-5566. For information on Stageworks Worldwide Productions, call 0870-444-5588.

In time for the February half term break, the park hosts Wow Weekends from February 10 and 11, to March 24 and 25, with wristbands costing £15 for unlimited rides.

Click on www.blackpoolpleasurebeach.com.

Leisure Parcs for circus, theatre rickets: online booking at www.blackpoolive.com or call 0870-380111.

Grand Theatre: For full details of more than 50 new shows, click on www.blackpoolgrand.co.uk, call 01253-290190 for further information, or visit: www.visitblackpool.com.