Low Sizergh Barn was recently named best independent retailer in the country' in the 2005 Retail Cheese Awards, so it seemed the perfect place to head to celebrate this year's British Cheese Week (October 22 to 30). A word of caution, however, if you plan to follow in Food & Drink's footsteps, do allow plenty of time to make your purchase - it's not just cheese they sell at Low Sizergh!...

DISCERNING foodies have been known to hog the cheese counter at Low Sizergh Barn farm shop.

At least that's what it might seem like to anyone standing behind them in the queue. The fact is that this spot is Mecca for anyone who has a care about where their food comes from and, if you care, you ask questions. So along with your wedge of Wensleydale comes a hefty slice of information courtesy of the extremely knowledgeable cheese team.

It was this knowledge which played such a paramount role in Low Sizergh's success at the Retail Cheese Awards.

"You had to show that you knew about the products, for example how they were made, how they need to be looked after," explained Kay Stockdale, who has since retired from the farm shop but was in charge of the cheese counter when the awards were announced. She attended the presentation in London with her successor Lynne Townson.

"It was such a great boost for everybody (at Low Sizergh). You should have heard the screams when we rang the farm shop to say we'd won."

Kay was responsible for the crucial written' element of the competition, but both she and Lynne stressed that everyone who works on the cheese counter contributed to Low Sizergh's success.

"All the staff are very clued up," said Lynne. "Something like this award qualifies the hard work."

The team's task master is their boss Marjorie Park who, when she founded the farm shop with husband John, determined that the cheese counter should be one of their star attractions.

In Jan Graham, who Marjorie first appointed to run the cheese counter, she found a kindred spirit.

"Jan was known as the queen of cheese'," said Kay, who succeeded Jan. "Her knowledge was just huge. And I was fortunate to work alongside her for quite a few years."

Kay has in turn shared her expertise with Lynne who recently returned to Low Sizergh as assistant manager.

"Part of my responsibility is the cheese counter," added Lynne, who explained that, over the years, more and more British cheeses have replaced their Continental counterparts.

"There are so many good British cheeses now that we don't need the Continental stuff," suggested Lynne. "And we're not afraid of hoicking them out if they're not selling. There's always something (British) that we can put in its place."

Instead of Dolcelatte ask for Mrs Bell's Blue, for example; instead of Parmesan buy Berkswell; instead of French Brie try Keldthwaite Gold, one of four cheeses from the new Cumberland Dairy at Penrith.

And instead of putting processed, mass produced cheese on the sandwiches in your child's lunchbox, why not try Horlicks Cheddar or Creamy Lancashire?

Of the 70 or so cheeses in Low Sizergh's counter display (even this isn't the full range), 90 per cent are British. Of that number, some 60 per cent are from the North of England and include cheese made with organic milk from Low Sizergh's own dairy herd Kendal Crumbly (on its own, and with red onion) and Kendal Creamy.

It's highly likely these particular cheeses will find their way into the cheese hampers Low Sizergh will be putting together for Christmas, and on to many a dinner party cheeseboard I'll wager.

If you want yours to be a talking point too, buy British!