Portugal is happening! Its winemakers are rediscovering almost forgotten indigenous varieties from Portugal's natural larder that include some of the most characterful grape varieties in the world.

Over the last few years, the Portuguese wine industry has been thoroughly overhauled and revitalised.

Invariably, Portugal is only approached for that bottle of port at Christmas; a ros wine in a student table lamp bottle; and possibly a refreshing vinho verde in the summer.

It's true potential, however, has always been there and recently it has begun to be realised in yet another vinous renaissance!

For too long the image had been one of bulk-glugging wines of no great consequence but, increasingly, the emphasis is turning towards smaller quantities and higher quality.

The breakdown of needless bureaucratic obstacles has had a stunning effect on these wines.

Unbelievably, until recently, it was illegal for Portuguese wineries to purchase grapes. Thus, they could only buy bulk wines from producers who barely had a grasp of how to cultivate vines, let alone make wine out of them, so it was inevitable that the quality was going to be rather less than thrilling.

Portugal has always been blessed with the right grapes and climate. What it hasn't always had is money and know-how.

With helpful EU subsidies and grants, massive investment and a reawakening by native and foreign winemakers, modernisation has progressed at an astounding rate.

There are 19 Denominacio de Origen Controlada (DOC) regions, which include the better known Douro, Do, Bairrada and Maderia.

Port has its own separate DOC and many others are appearing on our shelves more regularly such as Ribatejano, which runs north-east from Lisbon in mid Portugal, and Alentejano.

The lowest quality rating for a Portuguese wine, vinho regional (country wine), was started in 1992 and is graded above the vinho de mesa or basic table wine.

The next step up is IPR (indicacio de provenienca regulamentada) which is wine waiting to be upgraded to the highest status DOC.

Rarely do we see wines produced from just one variety in Portugal - but the aromatic white Ferno Pires, although it is used to contribute character to southern wines, is beginning to emerge on its own.

Another appearing in varietal form is the full-bodied red from the Trincadeira grape - examples of both are tasted below.

The real jewel in the crown is the blending of many little-known local grape varieties to create a vivid fusion of unique characters and flavours. They are well priced, modern-style wines that can compete on the international stage, but are undoubtedly Portuguese.

If different, indigenous grape varieties are your thing, or you're just after great, affordable winemaking - look no further.

See The Westmorland Gazette Leisure - Food and Drink section for the full list.