Glorious twelfth

SHOULD you happen to be dining in one of the Lake District's top hotels or restaurants, and there's food of the feather and fur' variety on the menu, the likelihood is that it has been supplied by Cartmel Valley Game and Smokehouse - perhaps the pheasant, pintail or partridge, the venison, hare or quail. Certainly the smoked salmon and the cold smoked pork loin will probably come from Cark.

Such is the rapport former Holker Hall head gamekeeper Jonathan Stott enjoys with his chef-customers that they know they can turn to him for that extra special ingredient which will help raise a dish to the sublime.

Smoked butter isn't as ridiculous as it sounds and I understand the smoked almonds are divine.

"Chefs use the butter in sauces," explained Jonathan's wife Susan.

Game has been part of both their pasts. Susan used to pluck birds shot by her father.

As for Jonathan, being taken on as a 16-year-old apprentice gamekeeper by Holker Hall was a dream come true. The former Ambleside lad stayed for three years then plied his trade around the country. It was the chance to be the head gamekeeper which brought him back.

Ten years later he decided to set up his own business remaining in a house on the Holker estate and converting the out-buildings for his game supply operations.

Hand-plucking a few birds for sale was how it all started processing game for a few butchers and the odd hotel.

Jonathan and Susan now employ two full-time and three part-time members of staff and their customer base comprises some 130 top hotels and restaurants as well as reputable delicatessens including Butterworths of Bowness and Low Sizergh Barn farm shop near Kendal.

CVG also supplies numerous quality high street butchers throughout the area.

"We are their main processor," said Jonathan, who sources all his venison locally (roe, fallow and red deer), pheasant, rabbit, trout, crab, sea bass, wild salmon, and sea trout, for example.

He puts the company's success down to the fact that there are just two people running it. Susan looks after the books but will turn her hand to whatever she has to; Jonathan sets aside two days a week to ring around all his customers for their orders and then delivers them personally.

"I am talking to the chefs all the time about what they want. That's how we run our business, by talking to our customers."

There's one chef Jonathan talks to more than most, however his drinking partner Nick Foster, the man responsible for the glittering array of accolades heaped upon The Drunken Duck in recent years.

The Hawkshead hostelry is a big fan of Cartmel Valley Game. Nick has even come up with some sausage recipes for the Stotts.

Jonathan and Susan had their doubts about adding bangers to the CVG range but wild boar and apple', duck leg and chilli jam', and venison and cranberry' positively fly out of the window.

As do products in the smoked' range hot (cooked), and cold (raw).

Jonathan was able to buy a second smoker thanks to a grant from the generous coffers of the Cumbria Fells and Dales Leader + programme, which featured recently in these columns.

Using locally-sourced beech chips which impart an especially delicate flavour CVG smokes a wide selection of products including beef and bacon, pancetta and pigeon, haddock, trout and mackerel.

By far the most popular food is, of course, smoked salmon, acclaimed by discerning chefs across the region, some of them Michelin-starred, no less.

Jonathan gets his salmon from the Shetlands.

"We sell about a hundred sides a week," he said.

And 20,000 pheasant breasts during the summer months.

Game it seems is growing ever more popular.

In an age which has suffered more than its fair share of food scares, the fact that game is wild, natural and free range' certainly helps in the image stakes.

There have also been many high profile campaigns to encourage people to hack their fat consumption, which have resulted in an increase in game sales.

For anyone on a low fat diet, venison, for example, makes a brilliant alternative to beef - just as tasty and extra lean.

Rabbit is increasing in popularity too, according to Susan.

"The supermarkets have been introducing more game onto their shelves and I think that is also encouraging people to be a bit more adventurous."

Here at Food & Drink we'd like you to be adventurous too, so I've raided the excellent recipe base at www.game toeat.co.uk to whet your appetite. See this week's recipes.

Pheasants with damsons

(Serves 2)
Ingredients:
2 x pheasant breasts
butter for frying
salt & pepper
2 tblspns brandy
damson puree

(My tip: This recipe suggested making your own
damson puree. But why bother when there’s an excellent selection of damson confections made by local food producers? Check out your
local speciality food shop or visit your
nearest farmers market.)

Method:
Melt butter in a frying pan and add the pheasant breasts. Brown lightly on both sides, open out a bit more and brown the exposed areas. Add the brandy and flambé. Add damson puree so that the breasts are lightly coated all over. Cook gently for about 10 mins. Add more puree & boil up just before serving.

Venison burger

(makes about 4 – 6 burgers)
Ingredients:
500g coarsely minced venison
½ a large onion, finely chopped
3 generous heads of parsley, finely chopped
3 egg yolks, 1 handful of white breadcrumbs
salt & freshly ground black pepper
¼ pint of milk

Method:
Start by soaking the breadcrumbs in the milk. Place the minced venison in a large bowl. Add the parsley, onion, egg yolks, breadcrumbs and salt and pepper and mix thoroughly. Cover and put in the fridge until ready to cook. Using a little flour shape the burgers into rounds; this quantity will make about 4 – 6 burgers. Cook under a pre-
heated grill for about 5 minutes on each side - or to your taste. Serve with salad and red onion
relish. Or to ring the changes, serve topped with a fried egg or slices of blue cheese eg: Stilton or Smoked Cumberland, and melt under a grill.

Tea Roast Duck

(Serves 4)
Ingredients:
4 x 6oz/175g duck breasts
7oz/200g broken orange peko tea
2 chopped shallots
2 lemons, zested
1 pint orange juice
2 tspns chopped flat leaf parsley
a knob of butter
Oven: 200C/400F/Gas 6/Aga - top right oven

Method:
Slash the skin of each duck breast 3 or 4 times with a sharp knife, roll in dry tea and leave to marinade in the fridge for 48 hours.
To make the dressing:
Sweat the chopped shallots and lemon zest in butter for 2-3 minutes, then add orange juice and reduce by two-thirds. Cool then add the chopped parsley. Sear the duck in hot fat until crispy being careful not the burn the tea.
Roast the duck breasts in a hot oven for 12 mins, remove from the oven and allow to rest.
Slice and serve with summer leaves drizzled with orange dressing.