Say Chile' and most people think of the Andes. And quite rightly - wherever you go, you can never avoid their looming shadow, writes Derek Kingwell.

Yet wine is an inescapable part of the landscape too, ever since the Spanish conquistadores started planting their first vines in the 16th century.

Classic French varieties were introduced some 300 years later, laying the foundations for some wonderful winemaking.

It's no myth that some of the Cabernet Sauvignon vines in Chile belong to an older lineage than those of Bordeaux.

The growing up' of the Chilean wine industry from peasant-producers to world-pleasers has been startling and impressive.

Things really started to change in 1975 when a tradition of 300 years received a jolt from Jos Canepa introducing hygienic stainless steel to produce Cabernet of an elegance that did justice to Chilean fruit.

In 1978 Catalonian Miguel Torres arrived in Chile and began to revolutionise the local industry, particularly white winemaking, with the introduction of stainless steel tanks to improve hygiene in wineries.

As a result, in 1989, when no-one else was interested, Oddbins started buying the best on offer and very quickly presented a stunned public with a Chilean Red Wine of the Year' at £2.99!

The latest technology now combines with international know-how, experienced oneologists and excellent terroir (the natural physical environment of the vine).

In addition, Chile is excitingly free from phylloxera, the bane of the wine universe, allowing it to produce versatile, forthright wines that are a pure and direct expression of single grape varieties.

Of these, Merlot is the most successful, although much of what Chile calls Merlot is actually an old Bordeaux variety called Carmenre.

This is a name to look out for as sample after sample of pure concentrated fruit is proving that Chile is a great patch of ground for this grape.

In this almost utopian viticultural environment with near-perfect soil, the regulatory effect of the mountains delivers the most brilliant consistent weather, too!

The climate is cooled by the Pacific to the west and the Andes to the east. Violent changes from year to year are far less likely in Chile than in Europe so it's very unusual to have a truly bad' vintage.

However, region of origin is important as it dictates the style to a certain extent.

Chile is narrow but very, very long - 2,800 miles from top to bottom - and while in the north it is boiling hot and dry, further south it is much cooler and more humid.

Right in the middle, it's spot on.

One of the most laudable attributes of Chilean wine is that, while quality rises in leaps and bounds, the prices have not yet gone through the roof, despite all expectations.

Chile is as much a classic, potential-laden wine region as anywhere else and you can still find superb quality under £5 as you will see from my tastings.

For Chile taste quality and for ultra-reliable quality and value, Chile has no equal.