I want Nigel Haworth's job. Not the part of it where he slaves over a hot stove creating Michelin-starred dishes at his flagship Northcote Manor at Langho near Blackburn, but the bit where he goes in search of suppliers. This quest naturally requires copious amounts of tasting if the job is to be done properly.

Would that I had been able to join him on recent sojourns in the Lune Valley and Lake District where this champion of local sourcing has been spoilt for choice. This speaks volumes for the culinary reputation now enjoyed hereabouts.

Indeed, when the redoubtable chef decided to expand his portfolio he certainly knew what he was doing when he set his sights on The Highwayman at Nether Burrow which nestles nicely on the doorsteps of Lancashire, Cumbria and North Yorkshire. Welcome to food heaven Mr H.

When Nigel Haworth and I meet for a sneak preview of his latest acquisition, he is en route to Waberthwaite with director of food operations, Robert Marshall-Slater.

The pair have spent the morning checking out a couple of local wholesalers before heading out to Cumbria's west coast to meet Richard by royal appointment' Woodall. The tight schedule included calling in at Howbarrow organic farm at Cartmel on the return journey.

Nigel is nothing if not thorough. But then he didn't get where he is today without seeking out the best. Robert reckons it is this quest for quality which is his boss's greatest strength - and his greatest weakness. Everything has to be perfect - even something as simple as searching out a potato suitable for chipping. Nigel will want to meet the farmer, to discuss the variety, to check the quality, etc, etc, etc, said Robert.

And yes, there will be chips on the menu at The Highwayman, which is now undergoing a £1 million revamp. But they'll be deep-fried to perfection in the finest beef dripping.

There won't be any pasta, however, for it is the potatoes that are part of our regional food heritage, not pasta. And therein lies Nigel Haworth's reason d'etre.

"Sourcing food from our doorstep and supporting our local artisan producers is a way of life at The Three Fishes," says Nigel.

Now The Highwayman looks set to follow suit.

For a full report on Gillian's interview with Nigel Haworth see Leisure in the February 9 issue of The Westmorland Gazette.